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27.03.2003 Team misses summit by 150 m due to deep snow. Second attempt to follow.
Since we are the first expedition on the Mera Peak this year and due to the heavy snowfalls of the previous weeks it turned out to be very difficult to proceed on the mountain. Also, since the snow is to deep to climb up without skis, we climbed without the help of Sherpas. Hence, finding the right route due to crevasses turned out to be difficult and cost to much time. At 6340 m we found ourselves on a dead end and our time was up. Here's the story:
On Wednesday 26th we depart Khare basecamp at 7 and follow our trails from the previous day. In 1.5 hours we reach the previous day's deposit. We pick up the equipment and food we left the first day. We proceed to Mera La and make another deposit there for the expedition staff who will follow us and relocate basecamp just below Mera La pass on the west side. This is a better location for summit attempts then Khare basecamp.
From Mera La (5400 m) we start making a track to ease the ascend the next day. There are quite a lot of crevasses, so we need to rope up again. At 5700 the clouds start to come in and we quickly descend on our skis in the fog.
Thursday 27th, we get up very early Mera La basecamp at 00.45. After trying to eat some breakfast and preparing the last equipment in the ice cold night, we depart at 2.00. We reach the end of our trail quickly in 1.5 hours. Then we have to find the route in the dark. At about 3.00 a chilly wind starts to blow and it becomes very cold. Wind chill droppes to about minus 40.
At about 6000 m we start to climb up the steep snow ridge. There turn out too be many crevasses, so we rope up again. Finding the right route here is difficult since the summit is out of sight now.
The altitude starts to count now and the speed of braking the trail drops. At about 6200 m we choose to follow a snow ridge on the right, because we think this is the faster way to the summit. After 100 meters we bump into a huge crevasse. We contemplate what to do... descending 100 m and choose an other route from that point? Everybody is so tired and time is running out so we decide that this is no option. Crossing the crevasse seems a better option. It takes us about 30 minutes to transport all equipment and ourselves over the crevasse.
We refixe the frozen skins to the skis and start to traverse a steep snow slope. It gets steeper and steeper, until the point that the avalanche risk gets irresponsible. We see the summit lying ahead just 150 m above us. The only way to reach it is to make a huge detour. We discuss what to do. After heavy discussion we decide that we won't make it today.
The ski descent is fantastic. But the dissapointment is also felt. But we will come back soon!
Today (Friday 28) we will go up to the place known as high camp (5800 m) around noon. We will camp there or a little higher. Early tomorrow morning we will do our second and final summit attempt. Today, the weather is great. Hope it holds at least until tomorrow afternoon!
Short movie of ski descent
Thursday 27th, we get up very early Mera La basecamp at 00.45. After trying to eat some breakfast and preparing the last equipment in the ice cold night, we depart at 2.00. We reach the end of our trail quickly in 1.5 hours. Then we have to find the route in the dark. At about 3.00 a chilly wind starts to blow and it becomes very cold. Wind chill droppes to about minus 40.
At about 6000 m we start to climb up the steep snow ridge. There turn out too be many crevasses, so we rope up again. Finding the right route here is difficult since the summit is out of sight now.
The altitude starts to count now and the speed of braking the trail drops. At about 6200 m we choose to follow a snow ridge on the right, because we think this is the faster way to the summit. After 100 meters we bump into a huge crevasse. We contemplate what to do... descending 100 m and choose an other route from that point? Everybody is so tired and time is running out so we decide that this is no option. Crossing the crevasse seems a better option. It takes us about 30 minutes to transport all equipment and ourselves over the crevasse.
We refixe the frozen skins to the skis and start to traverse a steep snow slope. It gets steeper and steeper, until the point that the avalanche risk gets irresponsible. We see the summit lying ahead just 150 m above us. The only way to reach it is to make a huge detour. We discuss what to do. After heavy discussion we decide that we won't make it today.
The ski descent is fantastic. But the dissapointment is also felt. But we will come back soon!
Today (Friday 28) we will go up to the place known as high camp (5800 m) around noon. We will camp there or a little higher. Early tomorrow morning we will do our second and final summit attempt. Today, the weather is great. Hope it holds at least until tomorrow afternoon!